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Saturday, December 8, 2012

The Manufacture Prelle Warms Up December With Gloves By Thomasine Barnekow

At last! Snow! We knew it would fall one day, although I'll admit I was enjoying the omission until Friday morning's windstorm brought a flurry of flakes into the region. Winter is right around the corner with snow, ice and freezing temperatures. It's time to make another seasonal wardrobe change and pull out those woolen sweaters and socks, those down coats, hats and gloves that have been stowed away in the back of the cellar for the past eight months.  

And wouldn't it be nice to spice up that wintery uniform with some creative designer fun? The glover, Thomasine Barnekow (link) has a lovely collection of gloves in delightful colors and a variety of styles to help you keep the chic on Paris streets this season.


A selection of gloves designed by Thomasine Barnekow. See her website for more examples

Born and raised in Sweden, Thomasine has called Paris her home for the past few years. You may have seen her creations recently at Printemps or in the ballet Sous Apparence last November.

On December 13, Sweden's luminous holiday honoring Saint Lucia, the Manufacture Prelle is hosting a special private sale in their showroom on the prestigious Place des Victoires.

Come try on and fall in love with Thomasine's creations, enjoy some Swedish pastries, and discover Prelle's new exhibition : Le japonisme dans les soieries lyonnaises link (I'll write more on this event later).

Hope to see you there!

-CSL

Thomasine Barnekow at the Manufacture Prelle
Thursday, December 13, 2012
10am - 7pm
At the Prelle showroom:
5 Place des Victoires
Paris 1er
tel 01 42 36 67 21
email paris @ prelle.com

Exhibition Japonisme et exotismes dans les soieries lyonnaises
November 29, 2012 - March 29, 2013
Monday through Thursday : 9am - 6pm
Friday : 9am - 5pm



Sunday, November 18, 2012

Edward Hopper goes Bohemias at the Grand Palais

Charles Amable Lenoir, Rêverie, collection particulière.
Copyright Mille/realis.
I love concept exhibitions. They always bring together the unexpected. A couple of years ago Crime et châtiment at Orsay lined up Degas' dancer sculpture between a guillotine and France's first crime scene photographs. I'm still wondering if that combination wasn't a product of my wildest dreams. And what about Art Nouveau, revival in which Guimard leads to Gaudi leads to Dali leads to ... Grateful Dead concert posters? Surprising, but it WORKS!
I love this kind of exhibition so much that I couldn't contain myself when I saw the metro posters for the Grand Palais' Bohemias. This theme hits home for a lot of us, invoking memories of romantic, adolescent dreams : life as a starving artist in a smarmy Paris hotel room, with a bed, a table, a silk kimono, pen and paper and a bottle of cheap wine. If you are like me, and grew up loving Puccini and Carmen (or in the 90's Rent), don't miss this exhibition that combines the spirit of them all showing the changing perception of the gypsy in art from the Renaissance to Nazi Germany.

Georges de la Tour, The Fortune Teller, Metropolitan Museum of Art.
The exhibition is thought provoking. On the ground floor, you observe the figure of the gypsy in art as it transforms through time. Several 17th century paintings of gentlefolk being bamboozled by Gypsies are displayed, the most renowned being Georges de la Tour's The Fortune Teller, on loan from the Met. Her majesty Elizabeth II has sent over a beautiful caricature by Leonardo da Vinci presenting a Roman citizen hounded by gypsies. I was surprised by several paintings of the Virgin in Gypsy garb. In the 16th and 17th centuries gypsies were believed to be from Egypt so certain painters presented Mary with a large round hat that was part of the Gypsy costume in renditions of the Holy Family in Egypt. In the 19th century, the gypsy was adopted as a symbol of artistic rebellion by artists, in particular Courbet. In his 1854 painting, La rencontre, ou Bonjour Monsieur Courbet, the artist presents himself dressed as a travelling man, an image that is all the more poignant as it contrasts with the gentlemanly clothing of the other two men in the painting.


Portrait d'un artiste dans son atelier,
attributed to Théodore Géricault,
Musée du Louvre.

In the second part of the exhibition, the gypsy and the artist have become one : the bohemian is born. This part opens with a portrait of Liszt, who wrote a treaty on Gypsy music, although he never truly adopted the image of the bohemian for himself. With Carmen and La Bohème playing in the background the visitor meanders through portraits of artists, such as this painting by Géricault on loan from the Louvre, or a self-portrait painted by young Delacroix and paintings of groups of artists in their ateliers. The literary world is included: an entire room is dedicated to the correspondence between Verlaine and Rimbaud and citations from Balzac and Baudelaire pop up all along the way. We enjoy a jaunt through a small-scale replica of Montmartre and music is referenced via a portrait of Satie by Ramon Casas dated 1891. In it we are invited to make the connection between the bohemian and the dandy - Satie is wearing a top hat and a monocle, but the background is a windmill on the Montmartre hills.
After a room full of paintings showing the joys, debauchery and solitude of late nineteenth century cafes, the exhibition comes to an abrupt and brutal close with a series of colorful lithographs presenting Tsiganes, signed Otto Mueller and exhibited at the Degenerate Art exhibition organized by the Nazi regime in 1937 in order to further marginalize this artist (amongst others) and his subject.

Edward Hopper is apparently THE exhibition to see this season in Paris. I'll admit that my rebellious side actually cringed at the thought of going to see yet another exhibition cataloguing the works of a very famous artist, but I didn't regret it. And although you might think that Hopper and Bohemias have nothing in common outside of sharing the Grand Palais as a venue this season, I found that seeing Hopper's paintings after thinking about marginalization and gypsies and artists made me understand Edward Hopper in a whole new way.

Let's resume the man's career : he starts out at the New York School of Art with teacher Robert Henri, spends a few years in Paris where he is influenced by the tail-end of impressionism and draws French people on cafe terraces (these drawings are mostly caricatures) he participates in The Eight rebellion/the Ashcan School led by his teacher Robert Henri and works as an illustrator until a successful exhibit of his watercolors gets him sufficient renown to become a full time painter.

Some of my favorite pieces in the first part of the exhibition are engravings on loan from the Philadelphia Museum of Art: "Night Shadows" and "The Cat Boat" (1921 and 1922). The first has a beautiful, emotional approach through contrasts of light and darkness that create a sensation of loneliness on a dark and deserted street. The second demonstrates Hopper's seemingly effortless mastery of perspective: the sail on the cat boat is designed with photographic realism.

Edward Hopper The Hotel Room, 1931.
Thyssen-Bornemisza Foundation, Madrid.
But what about the paintings? My favorite is The Hotel Room an oil on canvas dated 1931 on loan from Madrid. The lines are clean, the colors crisp, the story clear. Hopper paints like a technical writer writes : clear and concise. And the beauty of his painting lies in this simplicity. There are no cheap paintings on the walls of the hotel. The lines of the bed are clean and the sheets are still neat and tidy. All this brings you to the shadowed face of the woman in her underclothes, sitting on the bed staring at a sideways piece of paper - a note that has announced some great deception, and brought on a wave of loneliness that is accentuated by the near emptiness of the room.

Nearly all of Hopper's paintings express a certain loneliness.  There's the farmer and his wife in front of their house in the evening, the wife is looking at her dog in the foreground and the husband is watching his feet, there are the two girls having dinner in a lonely Chinatown restaurant, or the famous Nighthawks with the lady in pink and the man in blue in a nearly empty diner in the middle of the night. Hopper paints people experiencing the loneliness of their individual life journeys. That moment when we feel ourselves to be marginals disconnected with society and joyful human contact. Separation is the common thread between the two exhibitions. The sentiment of marginality inherent in Hopper's paintings and the lifestyles of gypsies and bohemian artists that proudly reside on society's fringes.

Whether or not you consider that my comparison tient la route, both of these exhibitions are excellent sources of intellectual stimulation. After all they are THE exhibitions of the season!

Bonne visite!

CSL

Visit Bohemias through January 14, 2013 and Edward Hopper through January 28, 2013
at the Grand Palais
Link to the Grand Palais website






Monday, November 5, 2012

Van Cleef and Arpels takes over Les Arts Decoratifs


Interior of the nave with decor signed Jouin and Manku.

The awe-inspiring interiors of Paris' numerous monuments and museums are impossible to hide even from the least observant passerby : the Petit Palais' courtyard in the summertime, the Musee d'Orsay's vast nave, the luminous, garden setting for French sculptures in the Louvre, the tea room in Musee Jacquemart-Andre are just a few. Let's not forget the classical columns and large marble steps of the Nave in Les Arts Decoratifs where visitors will be doubly astounded this season to discover a large selection of dazzling archives from the vaults of Van Cleef and Arpels scintillating in a decor signed by Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku.
All these adjectives are a bit superfluous. It goes without saying that a show of such reputable jewels will be spectacular, but Van Cleef et Arpels. L'art de la haute joaillerie, is not just a pretty advertisement for one of Paris' top jewelers.
Ludo bracelet, articulated ribbon of hexagons
in gold incrusted with rubies, 1937.
Copyright, Patrick Gries for Van Cleef and Arpels 
I'll admit that as I walked in to the museum on a cold, Thursday night, gladly turning over my dripping-wet umbrella at the coat-check, I expected to see beautiful jewelery without any great expectations for  the intellectual content of the exhibition. Let's go over a little list of Van Cleef's antecedents: the Mystery Set (TM), the Ludo bracelets, the Minaudiere (TM) and the Zipper necklace. These are just a few of the pieces that have made the reputation of the maison. They are all presented in such a great number that it's nearly impossible to take it in, but they are assembled in a manner that gives you an excellent look into numerous aspects of the company's activities.
The exhibition goes through the evolution of the company, describing innovations, trends, and showing off celebrities that wore and inspired various models. The most renowned story presented is certainly the Minaudiere (TM) a purse box with numerous little compartments for the various necessary items ladies' keep in their handbags. Charles Arpels is said to have concocted this creation after remarking that Florence Jay Gould, who was one of his clients, carried around a Lucky Strike box to hold her lipstick, cigarettes, etc.
Double flower clip and serpent chain necklace, 1939.
Copyright, Patrick Gries for Van Cleef and Arpels.
A personal favorite is the serpent chain necklace with double flower clip. This necklace can be folded around to create a bracelet or opened up to make a belt. The clip can be worn with or without the chain. It was presented at the World exhibition in New York in 1939. Multifunctional jewelry seems to have been a trend that spanned decades. In the early fifties for example, Van Cleef created a necklace that closes and opens like a zipper and can be transformed into a bracelet.
Chrysanthemum clip, 1937.
Copyright, Patrick Gries for Van Cleef and Arpels.
A word must be said on the Mystery Set (TM), Van Cleef's superstar. This setting (that the company has trademarked) is comprised of a series of stones placed side by side like a puzzle. As the stones are not interrupted by the metal setting, only a carpet of solid color is visible. The museum presents the technique in a very clear way (much clearer than my own) and shows a large number of pieces made with this setting. The Chrysanthemum clip of 1937 is one of the most impressive. 

Colombiad clip from the
Extraordinary Voyages collection 2010.
Copyright, Patrick Gries for Van Cleef and Arpels.

Each decade has numerous stories to tell and models to discover, each more interesting than the last. Visitors should be sure to have at least two hours available in order to see it all. Note that there is also a very well-made documentary filmed in the Van Cleef and Arpels workshop that shows the variety of specialists involved in the creation of their jewelry. All written information has been translated into English so that non-French speakers can see and learn too. When I attended on Thursday evening, there were several guides from the museum who gave impromptu commentaries. This gives an excellent atmosphere to the visit.
Enjoy the show!
-CSL
Van Cleef et Arpels. L'art de la haute joaillerie.
September 20, 2012 - February 10, 2013
Les Arts Decoratifs - Nave
107 rue de Rivoli
Paris 75001
+33 1 44 55 57 50

Sunday, October 7, 2012

Warming up and drying off with Paris history... and while you are at it, give me some old time religion

In Paris this week clouds roiled, leaves turned and rain droplets harmoniously splattered off of umbrella tops, ringing in the ears of Parisians as they ran to work, waited for the bus, or wandered the streets looking for a warm, dry cafe. Autumn is upon us in all its melancholy glory and with it a new wave of exhibitions has been launched throughout the city.

The Museum of Decorative Arts is presenting jewels by Van Cleef, the Musee de la Vie Romantique is showing cozy romantic interiors, the Musee Guimet is initiating us into the history of tea. We have heard much about "Impressionisme et la Mode" at Orsay and Mary Cassat at the Mona Bismark on the American Clubs website too. But the exhibition I want to talk about for this first Paris Notes column for Aurelien is at the Paris history museum.

The Musee Carnavalet seems a logical choice because it's a place that unites us all, Francophiles and Francophones, as it relates the stories and scenes of the French capital.

Last Wednesday the museum unveiled a new exhibition : Les couleurs du ciel, a selection of  paintings made for Paris churches in the seventeenth century. This exhibition will interest anyone who has a bit of curiosity. For those who are not already initiated into the works from the Golden Age of French painting, you can easily follow the evolution of styles from the remnants of mannerism to orderly classicism, and get to know the names of the most important painters of France at that time : La Hyre, Philippe de Champaigne, Le Brun, etc. For the initiated, the paintings are little known, not often displayed and offer a variety of sacred subjects. For everyone it's an interesting opportunity to see the gigantic paintings made to be hung high on the stone walls of a church chapel from a new point of view. The intimate space and low ceilings in the museum's exhibition hall may not seem like the ideal way to see these masterpieces, but you can observe the paintings entirely from the far side of the room and then walk up to them for a closer look so details that you couldn't see in a church come into full view. Samson's powerful muscles and Virgin Mary's sweet and sad expressions and the wrinkly lines of old Saint Jerome's pensive face are particularly moving. The museum announced this week on its Facebook page that they discovered the inscription ANNO 1613 on the portrait of Marie de Medicis by Pourbus when it was taken down from a rather high place on the museum's walls for the exhibition. Even Pourbus specialists had missed this detail!

Of course after visiting the temporary exhibition, I have to suggest taking a tour of the museum's permanent exhibits that are all noteworthy, and merit further commentary at a later time.

So, for those of us who are despairing to see the end of Summer's warm rays, take heart! There are plenty of activities that await us during the following months. And remember, no one came to Paris to get a sun tan!


CSL

Musee Carnavalet
23 rue de Sevigne
Paris 3e
tel: +33 (0)1 44 59 58 58

Exhibition : Les Couleurs du Ciel, peintures des eglises de Paris au XVIIe siecle
October 4, 2012 - February 24, 2013

Link to Musee Carnavalet website


Sunday, January 15, 2012

Chateau Malmaison

This chateau is a lovely detour for tourists looking for a day or half day outing from Paris that's slightly off the beaten path. Even though you won't be surrounded by throngs of eager site-seers at Malmaison, the history and decor of this chateau are definitely worth a closer look.

The Malmaison domain was acquired by Josephine Bonaparte in 1799 and her spirit continues to haunt every corner of the building. From 1800 to 1802 Malmaison was the French government seat during the Consulate when Napoleon reigned over France and it's expanding territories alongside two other Consuls. As emperor, Napoleon moved the court from Malmaison to the St Cloud palace (which stood in the nearby Parc Saint-Cloud until it was burned to the ground during the Second Empire), but the empress stayed on primarily at Malmaison.

The Renaissance style of the chateau didn't please the Bonapartes. In order to redecorate in a way that reflected the modern taste for classical antiquity, they hired the architects Percier and Fontaine whose ornementation was influenced by ancient Roman ruins. It's remarkable when you visit the chateau today how much of their decorative scheme has been maintained or restored.


Also interesting to note are the numerous paintings by the top painters of the Napoleonic Era. The portrait of Bonaparte crossing the Alps by David, a legend of Ossian by Girodet, and numerous portraits of Josephine by great artists that show both neo-classical and romantic influences.


After the emperor left for Saint Cloud, Josephine continued interior decorations and developed the grounds with exotic flora and fauna brought to her by French explorers such as the Capitaine Baudin. She is said to be the first European to have imported the black swan from Australia for example. To ensure the correct growth of her new plants, she ordered the construction of a vast greenhouse that included a series of rooms in which the empress could receive guests for tea.

There is really much, much more to discover about Napoleon, Josephine and the French Empire at chateau Malmaison. I cannot encourage enough to go for a visit. And if you happen to go on a sunny day, why not take a picnick for the Rueil-Malmaison park?

- CSL

PS For all Napoleonic Era enthousiasts out there, please consider supporting the restoration of the Salon Dore of Malmaison. To find out more, follow this link.

Chateau de Malmaison
Avenue du chateau de Malmaison
92500 Rueil-Malmaison

Opening hours :

October 1st - March 31st
Monday - Friday 10am-12:30pm 1:30pm-5:15pm
Saturday and Sunday 10am-12:30pm 1:30pm-5:45pm

April 1st - September 30th
Monday - Friday 10am-12:30pm 1:30pm-5:45pm
Saturday and Sunday 10am-12:30pm 1:30pm-6:15pm

Entry fees
Full price : 6 euros/ 8 euros during exhibitions
Ask for reduced prices and free entry circumstances.